Set in the Mediterranean Sea, just 3 miles adrift
from its big sister Malta, the familiar and immediately recognisable yawning
archway, of the Azure Window in Gozo has many stories to tell. Famous for
featuring in the HBO epic, Game of Thrones, as well as putting in an appearance
in many other high profile movies; this gigantic piece of rock, which is the
pride of Gozo, and a must for any self-respecting tourist is certainly an
imposing sight.
The stunning Azure Window in Gozo
Little Gozo, which measures only 8.7 x 4.5 miles
has seen a recent surge in popularity, not lease due to the attentions of
Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt who made their latest movie here in 2015. However,
long before Ms Jolie began extolling the virtues of this tiny piece of nirvana,
we were was busy making a movie of our own.
In short, we got there first.
Having moved to Gozo in 2010 after becoming
disillusioned with our lives in the UK. Steve and I were doing our thing down
at The Captain’s Table; a friendly, welcoming bar/restaurant in Xlendi bay. When
I say “our thing”, I mean we were singing – rock n roll, country and all that
jazz.
Steve and I down at The Captain's Table
We noticed the tall guy with the beard on the front
centre table. He was scribbling in a notebook and our curiosity was immediately
aroused. Turns out he wasn’t the local tax man, he was none other than American
author and seasoned traveller, James Morgan Ayres, who was visiting with his
wife Mary Lou aka ML.
James and ML
Cutting to the chase, James wanted to work with us
and make a music video; James had worked with some impressively big names, and
so I have to admit to feeling a tiny bit of skepticism at his enthusiasm for
working with us. However, as it happens, James Morgan Ayres is one of life’s
rarities, an all-round genuine good guy as is ML, though obviously, she’s not a
guy! Taken with what he’d seen when we performed, James had some great ideas
for a short video, using some of Gozo’s most famous landmarks as film sets.
A project such as this, requires more than 2
people, and so, calling on the good will of our friends, we gathered a core of
8 “crew” - we were all set. Among the
crew were an enthusiastic, down-to-earth couple called Jeff and Anne Cox. What
made their input all the more admirable was that, at the time, Jeff was waging
a personal battle with serious illness. Uncomplaining, stoic and absolutely determined
to use his fabulous photographic skills, Jeff threw himself into the project
with a vigour belying his 73 years and poor state of health. While the rest of us
fretted and worried about the impact of so much physical activity on him, Jeff
shrugged off the concerns, and simply got on with it. An ex-army sergeant, with the Royal Signals, and
made of stern stuff, Jeff dismissed any worries we had. He told us himself that
he was only too pleased to have an alternative focus to his illness, a fact he
demonstrated every day of the shoot. He was an inspiration to us all.
Jeff, far left, discussing the next move with James, next to him. Anne is far left in the background between them. I'm rummaging in the boot stage right!
Location wise, there were so many choices and opportunities.
With their lifetime of experience and insight, James and ML chose several sites
and duly photographed them for a story board layout. James had identified the
magnificent citadel in Gozo’s capital, Victoria, as our first location.
First stop - The Citadel in Victoria, Gozo
This dignified monument towers impressively over
the town on its own naturally defensible hill. Confident in its ability to
protect, and silent in keeping its unimaginable secrets, the citadel is host to
an abundant history. Dating back possibly to Neolithic times and fortified
during the Bronze Age, the citadel has been developed by numerous civilisations
including the Phoenicians and the Romans. As a medieval castle originally known
as called Gran Castello, the citadel’s walls were fortified in the 15th
century to protect against the persistent raiding of the corsairs. In 1551, the
citadel experienced its worst defeat, being besieged by 100,000 Ottomans who
took almost the entire population of between 4-5,000 people as slaves. Only 1
monk and 40 old people were spared.
The citadel was rebuilt, and as the island
recovered from being sacked, which took over 50 years, the entire population
took to the sanctuary of its walls between dusk and dawn right up until 1637. Subject
to many more additions and renovations, including input from the Order of St
John in the 17th century, the citadel stands today as an
extraordinary testament to the town’s bygone era.
My favourite shot of the day :)
Extensive renovations began again in 2008 and are
ongoing. Today, the citadel is home to a baroque cathedral, 2 chapels, a 16th
century prison, and several museums, all of which are open to the public.
It was against this grandiose background that we
began filming. Slipping quietly up the steep hill, long before this small city
awoke, we could almost hear the ancient echo of the footsteps of Napoleon’s
soldiers on the smooth worn stairs. Posing for still shots among the ancient
cannons and taking time to peer over the battlements at the 360 degree
perspective, this truly was an awe inspiring place to film.
Threading our 600cc Suzuki Bandit motor bike up the
limited street was a feat in itself, and drew some curious glances from the
local people who had started to arrive for their daily work inside the butter
coloured walls.
Our lovely 600cc Suzuki Bandit Motor Bike - why do I look like an alien?
I wonder what the old monk would have thought about
hearing the strains of Mustang Sally up and down the narrow alleys. As we
completed our day’s shoot, I noticed a nun arriving for her morning prayers.
Completely unfazed by the alien sight of cameras and people dressed in sparkly
outfits at 7am, she simply nodded a courteous greeting and went about her
business, maintaining the heritage of hundreds of years.
Takes more than Steve in his sparkly jacket to phase the nuns at the Citadel
Next stop was down on the acclaimed shores of the
Azure Window at Dwerja. Preparing a film set on this rugged surface was, in
short, a challenge. Our team rose to the occasion and carried drums, speakers
and more onto the beach, which is more rock than sand. Our activities drew the
attention of dozens of tourists, not least when Steve had the brilliant idea of
putting his drum kit on the roof of the car while I drove it around the car
park as he played. Good job we had fireman Colin on task to help haul the kit
up onto the car roof! Steve sat playing his drums, as if it was the most normal
thing in the world to play drums on top of a moving car J but then that’s Steve for you.
This is normal .......... right?
Fireman Colin helps him down
Tourists lined up to film the spectacle, as I drove;
creeping in between the bright stalls of the traders, who unlike the holiday
makers, looked completely underwhelmed by our actions.
As we came to a halt, and
Steve climbed down, a burly looking guy approached him. Sweating in the heat of
the early morning sun, he leaned in and in an accent which was pure Glaswegian,
declared, “I know you”, though it sounded a bit more like, “Ahh knooo yoooo”. Steve
peered at him, somewhat bemused by this unasked for interlude. Emboldened, the
man prodded a finger at Steve and repeated his claim, “Ihh’m telling yooo, ahh
knooo yoooo” he declared loudly. “Did y’ever sing in Derbyshire?” he asked,
hitting the nail on the head in one. Surprised, Steve acknowledged that he had
indeed done a lot of singing in Derbyshire. The man nodded, happy in the knowledge
that he had been right. “Told yooo” he crowed to his non-plussed wife who was
watching the exchange, and turning back to Steve he muttered, “Ahhh knew ahhh
knew yoooo” and off he went!
Phew, glad that bit's over then
After this short and amusing interlude, James gave
us the interesting news that he wanted to film us, right up there on top of the
Azure Window. Now, this ancient monument, like most things that have been
battered by the sea, is falling into disrepair. There are signs aplenty warning
of the dangers of climbing on top of the archway, but not wishing to ruin a
good shot, off we went. I ditched my high heels for trainers and made the long
climb up to the pinnacle, and was rewarded with an unrivalled view of the ocean.
We had walkie talkies and communicating with James, heeding his cues as to when
to mime and move – and so it was, that we did our routine, feeling on top of
the world and smiling out loud as we did it J J We won’t mention the fact that only a short time
after we filmed up there, part of the Azure Window collapsed! No, it wasn’t us
that broke it – honest!
That was quite a climb!
We have so many wonderful memories of the week we
spent filming that short 4 minute video. The impromptu lunches, all of which
seemed to involve Ollie the lurcher getting more than anyone else. I recall
singing Mustang Sally about 45 times a day, as we shot take after take (I’m
serious) but most of all, I remember the friendships we made. For ever after if
we sang Mustang Sally at a gig, all of those dear friends would run screaming
for the door and who could blame them; after an entire week of the same song ……………. enough was enough!
If I'm looking in the fridge, then Ollie had to be looking too
Oh and SURELY this small pack of chocolate biscuits is for me
It is a sad fact of life that all things must come to an end. We were truly sad when the week of filming ended. James and ML moved on from Gozo, continuing their travels elsewhere. I had to return to the UK to work, and everyone went back to their every day lives.
It was with extreme sorrow that we learned that Jeff lost his fight
with cancer in 2013 and even more tragically, his lovely wife Anne succumbed to
the same illness only one year later. They were both much beloved by many
people, and are very sorely missed. I
like to think that in some small way, being part of this project gave
Jeff a pleasant interlude during a very difficult time in his life. We
were lucky to have him be a part of it.
The truly smashing Mr and Mrs Jeff and Anne Cox - thanks guys, for everything
That piece of rock can boast many things, but I’m
pretty damn sure that no one in its long history has ever stood atop it
performing a dance routine and singing Mustang Sally.
Well they have now.
Packing up to go home - I'm telling you I must be part alien, see only 4 fingers on each hand :)
Find out more about our life in Gozo in my new
book, Gozo Is the Grass Greener? Available via Amazon or in good book stores
and published by Faraxa Books.
This was a blue suede shoes production!
And having the last word, Jeff, James, Steve, and of course Ollie
Here is our tribute video of thanks to all those who helped in the production of the Mustang Sally video.
Good times people, good times J
What’s that? Oh you’d like to see the
video of Mustang Sally? Ok, here’s the link – but remember, I used a different
name back then for singing, so if you’re wondering, who on earth is Georgia
Rose, well, that was me J
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3QKxAndaf8
For more on James Morgan Ayres, please visit;
http://www.jamesmorganayres.com/
Freya
